Jacques Fevrier, Le Raisin a Plume, Oudon, Muscadet

 

This little inland part of Muscadet, the Coteaux d'Ancenis is a unique outlier of the region with a young group of vignerons taken up a radical vision for the wines of the region that could not be further than the old image of Muscadet as lean, acid-driven with little texture. 

Jacques came to winemaking after training as a sommellier and working around the world, incliuding time at claridges in London and in Australia where he spent some time with Anton Von Klopper.  the region, after working for a while in Alsace and in the Loire with Noella Morantin. He is not from the Muscadet region, but it was a useful mid-way point for him and his wife between their two families. It's also a relatively affordable place to start making wine, in a relatively unknown appellation, where there are quite a range of grape varieties. Jacques has Pinot Gris (known locally as Malvoisie), Melon De Bourgogne, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Abouriou and Sauvignon to work with. 

After taking over he converted the vineyards to organics and this is as with all great growers where most of the work is for him. In the cellar he tends to keep it relatively simple, mostly ageing fibreglass, but with a few barrels for some cuvees depending ont he vintage. He generally does not add sulfites, the exception coming for in vintages where he had to buy fruit, because he has lost so much of his own to frost, or as a last resort. 

He has suffered in the last few years with huge losses to frost, but thankfully 2018 and on has been a bit more generous. Jacques' makes honest and approachable wines that are full of energy. 

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