Sometimes wines need time to fully express themselves, or just age particularly gracefully. Sometimes they are just so good young that it seems a shame to wait. This will be a constantly changing selection of wines that we really like at this moment.
5th Feb 2021
Two wines from Caroline Ledédenté based in Bugey. On just her second vintage Caroline is really astounding us with the quality of her wines. She makes so many cuvées though that it can be difficult to not what to drink right now. Two of our favourites right now are her stunning Chardonnay, Premier Grain, from a parcel she started farming last year, it's very open and pure and really shows the potential of the terroir in Bugey.
The other is Comme Ca - a wonderfully spiced, deep, yet light Gamay that just has such a Bugey flavour profile that we also see in the wines of Louis Terral. His wine Marianne is also showing particularly well at the moment, 2018 was a very hot year for Louis and the wines have really benefited from some time in the bottle.
We have more from her which we will release later in the year
From the south of France, Joseph Jefferies - Sisyphe is old vines Carignan given a month maceration and then a long time in bottle before releasing. It shows the potential of these wines to age, very gracefully and is a beautiful wine to drink over a couple of days, structured, but filled with smoky volcanic fruit.
From the Loire - Christophe Foucher's Hauts Plessis, made from a plot of 80 year old Menu Pineau vines, has long been one of our favourite white wines. It's really settled down now into a wine that is showing it's whole, wonderful texture, very mineral, almost opulent but with his trademark acidity. It's everything I want from white wine.
As they put it on the Percy Selections website; There are very few winemaking estates where history and nobility intersect with the avant-garde. But when it happens the results can be revelatory. Bruno Schueller's wines can be unpredictable, but they are always engaging - his Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg 2013 is on the finer end of things. drinking beautifully now,
Also from Alsace, a lesser heralded part of the region, Jean Marc Dreyer consistently makes delicious wines in what he describes as a very hands off-fashion. Wines like his simply do not occur without great farming though. Fisterra is a blend of all the white macerations of 2018 and seems to be a very similar blend to the Brutal De Jean Marc that seems to be quite sought after, possibly just a different label..
Back to the Loire - Francois Saint-lo & the Rue Des Belles Caves team always give their wines plenty of time in the cellar - the 2015 Bois Guyon spent 2.5 years in barrel, a year and a half in bottle before release. It has now had as much time in bottle as in barrel and according to something I once read Pierre Overnoy - said. this is the time a wine needs to express itself. It's showing very well and like the label shows, it's a wine that seems to get younger with age.
Finally again from very old vines, with a long elevage, (two year in barrel) the supreme Substance from Julien Pineau. A powerful Sauvignon with a wonderful texture - we have just a few bottles left, it is a great wine to surprise people with when they say they don't like Sauvignon..